Do you love the shade and privacy of your Markham Woods trees but struggle to keep the yard low‑maintenance and photo‑ready? You are not alone. Many Longwood homeowners want a landscape that protects mature oaks, handles stormwater, and looks great without constant fuss. In this guide, you will learn Florida‑Friendly strategies tailored to wooded and golf‑adjacent lots in Seminole County so you can plan with confidence. Let’s dive in.
Assess your site first
A quick site assessment prevents most landscaping mistakes. Wooded and golf‑adjacent properties come with unique shade, root, and drainage patterns that should guide every decision you make.
- Map your trees and driplines. Note trunk locations, canopy edges, large surface roots, and any signs of decline like dead limbs or crown thinning.
- Identify easements, setbacks, and any golf‑course or HOA rules. Golf adjacency often limits plant height and placement and may prohibit planting in buffer zones.
- Check soil and drainage. Dig a few small test holes to see how water drains and flag compacted or wet spots.
- Track microclimates. Record hours of sun and shade under the canopy across the day so your plant choices match real conditions.
- Confirm permits and codes. Review Seminole County tree protection and land‑development rules before removal, major pruning, grading, or new hardscape.
Pre‑design checklist:
- Survey or plot with boundaries and easements
- Document canopy driplines and drainage patterns
- Review HOA covenants and golf‑course agreements
- Consult Seminole County planning and UF/IFAS Extension before removing or pruning large trees
Plan plantings for shade
Florida‑Friendly Landscaping is simple when you match plants to light and moisture, group by water needs, and keep mulch consistent. In Longwood’s inland, warm‑humid climate, choose native or well‑adapted species that tolerate root competition and dappled light.
Understory shrubs
- Yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria). Evergreen, adaptable, good for screening and wildlife.
- Wild coffee (Psychotria nervosa). Thrives in deep shade, glossy foliage, striking red berries.
- Dahoon holly (Ilex cassine). Evergreen that tolerates wetter spots.
- Florida anise (Illicium floridanum). Fragrant, shade‑loving, best in moist shade.
- Simpson’s stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans). Small tree or shrub with flowers and berries that attract pollinators.
Groundcovers and turf alternatives
- Coontie (Zamia integrifolia). Native cycad, low maintenance in shade to part shade.
- Native woodland ferns. Create a soft, natural understory that complements existing trees.
- Low native shrubs as a “green carpet.” Use in place of turf under closed canopy.
- Functional pathways and small turf strips. Use stepping stones, mulch, or a limited playable turf strip only where you need it.
Accent and layout ideas
- Layered planting. Place taller shrubs toward the back and lower plants in front to create depth under the canopy.
- Mulch rings and root buffers. Keep new beds and hardscape outside critical root zones whenever possible.
- Seasonal containers. Add shade‑tolerant tropicals or ferns near entries and patios for color without disturbing roots.
Deer and golf‑ball considerations
- Choose tough, flexible plants and protect new installs. Many natives like coontie and yaupon are moderately deer‑resistant, but young plants benefit from temporary guards.
- Plan buffers near fairways. Use durable hedging or low‑visibility netting in narrow, high‑impact zones and coordinate with course management if needed.
Irrigation and fertilizer
Under mature canopies, the goal is efficient water use with minimal spray and minimal fertilizer. Group plants by water needs and favor deep, infrequent watering.
Irrigation best practices:
- Limit turf under closed canopy to reduce irrigation demand.
- Use micro‑irrigation for beds and specimen plants. Drip, soaker hoses, and micro‑sprays reduce waste and foliar disease.
- Water deeply and infrequently. This encourages deeper roots and healthier plants.
- Install smart controllers with rain sensors or ET settings. Add flow sensors to catch leaks.
- Water before sunrise to reduce evaporation. Avoid daytime watering in hot sun.
Local rules to confirm:
- Check Seminole County Utilities for current watering schedules and conservation programs. Many local utilities use alternate‑day schedules and may add restrictions during drought.
- Follow fertilizer guidance that limits runoff to lakes and springs. Avoid phosphorus unless a soil test shows deficiency, and never apply before heavy rain.
Fertilizer basics:
- Test soil before fertilizing trees and large shrubs. Established oaks often do not need routine fertilization.
- If fertilizing turf or ornamentals, use slow‑release products within local timing rules.
- Feed soils naturally. Maintain mulch and organic matter to support soil life.
Manage stormwater wisely
Your trees and understory are powerful tools for slowing and soaking rain before it leaves your property. Focus on infiltration, filtration, and root protection.
Proven techniques:
- Preserve canopy and leaf litter. Intact understory slows runoff, increases infiltration, and reduces erosion.
- Install rain gardens in low spots or near downspouts. Choose plants that tolerate occasional inundation and respect existing root zones.
- Use permeable paving. Driveways, walks, and patios can employ permeable pavers or reinforced gravel to cut runoff.
- Direct downspouts into vegetated areas or rain gardens. Avoid routing to hard surfaces or thin turf.
- Maintain 2 to 4 inches of mulch in beds. Keep mulch off trunks and flares to prevent rot.
Protecting roots:
- Avoid trenching or excavation inside the canopy’s critical root zone. If utilities must cross, use trenchless methods or hand digging.
- Do not raise or lower grade around trunks. Even a few inches of fill can suffocate roots.
- Limit heavy equipment near driplines. Use temporary mats if access is unavoidable.
Golf‑edge tips:
- Clarify stormwater responsibilities with course management. Fairway runoff can affect your drainage.
- Install vegetated buffers along golf edges. Tough shrubs and native grasses help trap sediment and slow flows.
Maintenance and curb appeal
A light‑touch routine keeps your woodland look healthy and listing‑ready while protecting the canopy that makes Markham Woods special.
Canopy care:
- Prune for safety first. Remove dead or hazardous branches, and avoid topping. Hire an ISA Certified Arborist for large or structural work.
- Mulch in broad, shallow rings. Maintain 2 to 3 inches and keep mulch pulled back from the trunk flare.
- Monitor annually. Check for pests, root damage, and crown changes and treat only when needed.
Low‑maintenance seasonal schedule:
- Spring. Inspect irrigation, top up mulch, plant containers, and check for golf‑ball impacts.
- Summer. Reduce fertilization, check irrigation after big storms, and lightly stake or pin‑prune new plants.
- Fall. Prune lightly after active growth, remove safety hazards, and ready rain gardens before the wet season.
- Winter or early spring. Complete major pruning of non‑flowering shrubs and plant in cooler months to establish roots.
Photo‑ready curb appeal:
- Compose layers. Foreground, midground, and background plantings create depth under the canopy.
- Choose focal points. Coontie groupings, wild coffee with berries, or a mulched tree ring offer high visual impact.
- Clean and frame. Rake main walkways, prune to reveal strong branch structure, and keep irrigation heads hidden.
- Use graceful lighting. Low‑voltage fixtures highlight trunks and focal plants for evening warmth.
Local resources
For current rules, plant lists, and how‑to guidance, reach out to:
- University of Florida IFAS Extension and the Florida‑Friendly Landscaping program
- Seminole County UF/IFAS Extension for local plant recommendations and workshops
- Seminole County Utilities for watering schedules and conservation programs
- Seminole County Planning and Zoning or Code Enforcement for tree protection and permits
- Seminole County Stormwater or Environmental Management for rain garden and erosion guidance
- Florida Department of Environmental Protection for fertilizer best practices
- International Society of Arboriculture to locate certified arborists
Ready to sell or refresh?
When you align your design with the canopy, you cut maintenance and elevate curb appeal for daily enjoyment and future listing photos. If you want a second set of eyes on what to plant, how to stage the yard, or where to invest before listing, reach out. Jen King brings two decades of neighborhood expertise in the Markham Woods corridor to help you make smart choices and market your home with confidence. Get Your Instant Home Valuation when you are ready to plan next steps.
FAQs
Can I plant under mature oaks in Longwood?
- Yes, but use shallow planting, avoid compaction, and choose shade‑tolerant plants that handle root competition. Do not raise soil over roots.
How much mulch should I use beneath the Markham Woods canopy?
- Apply 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch in a broad ring and keep it off the trunk flare. Avoid volcano mulching against trunks.
Do I need a professional for large tree pruning near my home?
- Yes. Use an ISA Certified Arborist for canopy lifting, hazard removal, and structural work. Light, correct cuts on small branches can be DIY.
Should I keep turf under heavy shade from my oaks?
- Often no. Turf struggles in dense shade and needs more water and care. Replace with mulched beds, native groundcovers, or a small functional turf strip.
Are there special rules next to a golf course in Seminole County?
- Possibly. Review HOA covenants, verify easements or buffers on your deed, and coordinate with course management about screening, ball flight, and maintenance duties.
